Access Point or Second Router

Once you've decided Wi-Fi needs extending over a cable, not a repeater, the next question comes up in the shop: buy an access point, or buy an ordinary router and turn it into one? Both work. The differences are in price, features, and how much has to be configured by hand.

The difference in short

A router is a gateway: it takes internet from the modem, hands out IP addresses to devices (DHCP), acts as a firewall, and happens to broadcast Wi-Fi too. An access point does only that last part: it takes a cable from the existing router and broadcasts Wi-Fi. It doesn't hand out IPs, isn't a firewall, doesn't create a new network, it extends the one that already exists.

That's why an ordinary router simply plugged in as a second device creates a second network inside the first: devices upstairs can't see the printer downstairs, and some smart home apps get confused. This is the issue covered in the guide to two routers on one network. The fix is switching the second router to AP mode: and that's where the comparison begins.

Option 1: An ordinary router in AP mode

Pros:

• Easy to find, and an idle old router can be used without buying anything.
• Has several LAN ports, so it doubles as a small switch for a nearby TV or computer.
• If needs change later, it can go back to being a full router.

Cons:

• Setup needs a few manual steps: disable DHCP, set a fixed IP, plug the cable into a LAN port not WAN (unless the router offers an official AP mode that handles it all).
• Designed for a desk, not a ceiling. With external antennas sticking out, it's not pretty on a wall.
• Wi-Fi settings don't sync: changing the password means logging into two admin pages.
• No PoE support, so it needs a power socket where it's mounted.

Option 2: A dedicated access point

Pros:

• Designed for ceiling or wall mounting; flat with no external antennas, and its signal pattern is aimed downwards.
• Usually supports PoE: one LAN cable carries data and power, no socket needed in the ceiling.
• With several units of the same brand, settings are managed from one place and devices move between units smoothly, see the guide to roaming between access points.
• Setup is plug-and-play: there's no DHCP to disable.

Cons:

• For equivalent Wi-Fi capability, slightly more expensive than a router of the same class.
• Usually only one LAN port. If a TV and computer need connecting there, you'll need an extra switch.
• If you don't already have a PoE injector or switch, that's an extra cost, or use the usually-included power adapter.
• Some brands require a specific app or controller for initial setup.

How to decide

• You have a decent old router and a socket at the location → make it an access point. Free, and the steps are in the two-router guide above.
• Buying new for a home, one extra spot → either is fine. Pick an access point if it's going on the ceiling or there's no socket; pick a router if it's going on a desk and you need extra LAN ports.
• Buying new for a business, or more than two spots → dedicated access points, one brand, with PoE. Central management and proper roaming are worth the price difference, and they're what separate café Wi-Fi that "drops when you change tables" from Wi-Fi that doesn't. See the venue Wi-Fi capacity guide.
• Can't run a cable at all → this isn't a choice between the two. See mesh vs repeater or powerline and alternatives.

What applies to both

Whichever you choose: use the same Wi-Fi name and password as the main router so devices switch by themselves, pick a channel different from the main router (see the channel guide), and place it in the middle of the area you want to cover, not at its edge. The cable should be Cat 5e or Cat 6, covered in choosing LAN cable.

Router in AP mode: cheap or free, needs a socket and a few setup steps, good for one extra spot at home. Dedicated access point: slightly pricier, ceiling-mounted with PoE, centrally managed, good for businesses or homes with several spots. Both are far better than a repeater.

Frequently asked questions